Cartier Blackamoor brooch. France, ca.1920-1930.

Cartier Blackamoor pendant brooch in 18k yellow gold with enamels, diamonds and coral. France, Art Deco period, ca. 1920-1930. Signed Cartier and numbered 05208.
Brooch-pendant made in 18k yellow gold representing the bust of an African figure, typology known as Blackamoor, very appreciated in the high-end jewelry of the Art Deco period. The piece features an elaborate enamel work on the face, treated in glossy black, and on the turban, enameled in cream and black tones with geometric decoration, characteristic of the decorative language of the twenties, and adorned with rose-cut diamonds set in a frontal motif, while the upper part is topped with a red coral bead, providing a vibrant chromatic contrast and fully in line with the combinations of materials and colors typical of Cartier in this period. The earrings are completed with rings from which hang cultured pearls, integrated in a balanced way in the composition.
The piece has a convertible system of brooch and pendant, and presents a careful technical execution in both the modeling and finishes, distinctive features of Cartier's production during the height of Art Deco. The engraved inventory number and signature confirm its authenticity and its belonging to a limited series production, intended for a high-end international clientele.
Weight: 9.30 g
Measurements: 34 × 17 mm

The Blackamoor de Cartier brooches are today one of the most sought-after items by collectors, synthesizing the technical excellence of the house with the exotic and sophisticated taste that marked the jewelry of the 1920s and 1930s.