20th-century Manila shawl

20th-century Manila shawl.
Embroidered silk.
The fringes are tangled.
Measurements: 147 cm + 30 cm (length).

A traditional garment among high-society ladies, the Manila shawl takes its name from the capital of the former Spanish colony of the Philippines, where 16th-century Spanish galleons loaded goods brought from the East for export to Europe and the Americas. It originated in China, where they were made of silk and hand-embroidered. The earliest shawls featured Oriental motifs, such as dragons, bamboo, and pagodas. However, these motifs were soon replaced by European ones, primarily Western flowers and birds. In fact, the fringe was added under Spanish influence. Traditionally, it was meant to cover the entire back and reach the tips of each arm, hence its large size. They were always particularly expensive pieces, due to the meticulous work involved in weaving the fringe and embroidering the shawl.